Congratulations on taking the first steps in creating your own workspace! For all of your creative endeavors you are going to need a durable and sturdy worktable. The table used at Well Sewn Style is 72” by 48” and stands at 36” tall.
The overall design is for a countertop height table. Should you need the table to be taller or shorter follow these adjustments for the leg height only (orange): with your hands relaxed at your sides measure from the ground to the top of a shirt cuff/ wrist bone. Since your posture will ultimately offset any fatigue while cutting or laying out patterns this height can be adjustable all other components of the build should remain the same. Generally a height between 33” and 36” will fall around your hips making placing your hands on the table comfortable and allows the forearms to be relaxed.
The materials used can all be found at your local home center and can also be cut for you there as well. Follow your local store’s guidelines to the number of cuts and plan them accordingly as some stores will charge extra for more than 8 cuts.
1 lb. exterior decking screws
1 – 48” by 96” Plywood sheet 1/2” to 3/4” thick
6 – 2” by 4” (1.5” by 3.5” true size) by 144” long (12 ft) **
** If you need to get smaller sizes due to availability or transporting be sure to get the next step down: 96” (8 ft)
4 – 2” castor wheels full 360º rotation with brake lock
*** This will add to your final height of your table i.e. if you want to have a final height of 36” the legs should be cut to 34”
This guide will be referring to each part as a color referred to in the digital plans available in the resource library:
Leg height: orange – 36” – 4 ct
Leg support: pink – 6” – 4 ct
Leg cross: yellow – 42” – 2 ct
Leg brace: teal – 69” – 1 ct
Table side: red – 72” – 2 ct
Table cross: green – 45” – 5 ct
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After all parts have been cut start with the leg assembly. Each leg will need two orange, two pink, and one yellow. Secure the pink to the orange with the bottoms meeting flush (evenly). The yellow part now goes on top and across the pink/orange parts. Secure with screws to both the pink and orange parts.
*NOTE: pre-drill holes so splitting becomes minimal.
Repeat for second leg assembly.
Create a table top framing using the red part of the outside and the green parts on the inside as shown. Evenly distribute the green parts by first securing the ends (two), then 36” on center, then 18” from center. Secure each with screws.
*Note: pre-drill holes so splitting becomes minimal.
**Note: Making two scrap blocks from remaining 2×4 about 16.5” will help with this spacing of the green parts. The scrap block will act as a guide to make sure you are evenly distributing the pieces from the ends and that should meet in the center without extra measuring and math. As a math teacher I can sympathize with those having difficulty with even fractions and odd pieces.
Once the tabletop framing is completed attach each leg assembly to the inside of the table top framing as shown. Secure with screws. Pre-drill where necessary. Attach the teal part across the length of the assembly on top of the yellow leg assembly parts as shown. Secure with screws.
Using clamps will help make sure that the leg and table assemblies meet flush at the top so when you lay the ply sheeting on top there should be minimal to no overhang. When securing the sheeting to tabletop framing be sure to drive the screws just beyond the surface of the top sheeting. Secure from one side to the other to prevent any buckling or lifting.
The castor wheels are great if you have limited space and need to move your table around. Place the bottom plate of the castor to the pink and orange leg assembly pieces. Pre-drill and secure using the decking screws. Avoid any screws that may come with the castor set as they may be too short and can break over time.
Happy building! I hope you enjoy your sewing table as much as I do!