This week I made the Sallie Jumpsuit, a pattern from Closet Case Patterns. I used a black ITY knit which is the perfect fabric for this project as it can be both dressed up and down. When I tried this jumpsuit on my husband made a face. He said: “I just don’t get jumpsuits.” What’s there to get? It’s pants and a top combined with an elastic waistband–basically secret pajamas that I can wear EVERYWHERE. Thankfully I don’t seek out fashion advice from my hubby 🙂
Just to prove my husband wrong and demonstrate how awesome a jumpsuit can be I styled this garment three ways. I have a feeling the options are endless with such a versatile wardrobe builder. Check out styling details below and scroll through for a review of the pattern and modifications.
Date night look
Styled with: Sam Edleman Serene block-heel suede sandals in hot pink*; gold cuff bracelet from Target and Clover Drop Earrings in Multi from Baublebar*.
Styled with: black and white blazer from Target; green suede peep-toe pumps by Nine West (traded through consignment); Dooney and Burke Alta Bag with vintage fabric; pave and resin bracelet from BaubleBar*.
Styled with: denim jacket from Target; black and gold vintage drop earrings; tote bag from Printed Village (by way of TJ Maxx) and Chuck Taylor HiTops in Fruit Slice print.
Closet Case Patterns Sallie Jumpsuit Review
The Sallie Jumpsuit is a pattern from Closet Case Patterns by designer Heather Lou. This pattern company is becoming one of my favorites as their designs are super modern and the instructions are always on-point.
Pattern design, construction and fabric choice
The top consists of a front and back bodice, a front and back lining and a tie strap. The top is kimono style meaning no separate sleeve, it’s all one piece. The bottom consists of front and back pieces as well as two pieces for each pocket.
This is a great pattern to learn how linings are inserted in knitwear (the Cashmerette Turner dress uses a similar lining method). The casing for the elastic waist is created by sewing a straight line one inch from the bottom of the bodice, then attaching the bodice to the pants creating a channel. The elastic sits at the waist which is my preference as I like to emphasize my curves.
The pants are a simple palazzo style. I love the designer’s choice to have the pockets drafted as curved inset pockets instead of standard in-seam pockets. In-seam pockets would have been easier, but this style of pocket creates a more interesting design feature and I really prefer the look.
I used my serger and sewing machine to sew this pattern, although the entire project could be completed with a sewing machine. Just make sure you are using the appropriate needle for your fabric. In my case I used an ITY knit and used a Schmetz stretch needle in a size 75/11.
I used a black ITY knit that was perfect for this pattern. This ITY knit has excellent recovery, about 50% stretch and a slight sheen which lends itself to dressing up or down depending on accessories.
Sizing and Modifications
This pattern goes up to a size 20, or a 48 inch hip. I made a size 20 bust, 18 waist and 20 hip grading out 1/2 inch to give me an additional 2 inches in the hip area (my hips measure at 50 inches).
I added 5 inches overall in length to the leg, three inches at the lengthen/ shorten line and two inches at the hem line. My only issue with the overall pattern was that the lengthen/shorten line is in the crotch area, which I think would work fine if you were only lengthening/ shortening the pattern by 1-2 inches but with three inches, the crotch area was too long. The next time I make this pattern (and there will definitely be a next time!) I will add 1.5-2inches in length to the crotch area then distribute the remaining length throughout the leg of the pattern. I also struggled with the under stitch concept on both the bodice and the pockets but I think this is more about user error than poor instructions.
Bottom line: I will most definitely be making this pattern again but next time distribute the additional length throughout the leg. The pattern also has an option to do a tank style top or a maxi length skirt. I have a feeling I’ll be making several versions for spring and summer 2017.
So what do you think? Would you wear a jumpsuit? I hope you’ll give it a try!
Happy Sewing and Styling,
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